©Pat Ashforth & Steve Plummer 2018

©Pat Ashforth & Steve Plummer 2018

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MITRED SQUARES 2

A mitred square begins with the number of stitches you need for two sides of the square. Each ridge of knitting is shorter than the one before so the ridges turn inwards to form an L-shape and eventually disappear away to a point to complete the square.

3

1

2

4

Different arrangements of light and dark garter ridges could be used to change the overall effect.


The blue lines denote cast-on edges.

The red lines show edges where stitches are picked up.

Square 1

Using Dark, cast on 47 stitches. Count this as the first row of the first ridge.
Ridge 1 - Second row : knit 22, double decrease (using knit row method described above), knit to the end (45 stitches)





Ridge 2 (Light) : purl 21, double decrease (using purl row method described above), purl to the end (43 stitches)

Ridge 3 (Dark) : knit 20, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (41 stitches)

Ridge 4 (Light) : purl 19, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (39 stitches)

Ridge 5 (Dark) : knit 18, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (37 stitches)

Ridge 6 (Light) : purl 17, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (35 stitches)

Ridge 7 (Dark) : knit 16, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (33 stitches)

Ridge 8 (Light) : purl 15, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (31 stitches)

Ridge 9 (Dark) : knit 14, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (29 stitches)

Ridge 10 (Light) : purl 13, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (27 stitches)

Ridge 11 (Dark) : knit 12, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (25 stitches)

Ridge 12 (Light) : knit 11, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (23 stitches)

Ridge 13 (Dark) : purl 10, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (21 stitches)

Ridge 14 (Light) : knit 9, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (19 stitches)

Ridge 15 (Dark) : purl 8, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (17 stitches)

Ridge 16 (Light) : knit 7, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (15 stitches)

Ridge 17 (Dark) : purl 6, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (13 stitches)

Ridge 18 (Light) : knit 5, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (11 stitches)

Ridge 19 (Dark) : purl 4, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (9 stitches)

Ridge 20 (Light) : knit 3, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (7 stitches)

Ridge 21 (Dark) : purl 2, double decrease (purl method), purl to the end (5 stitches)

Ridge 22 (Light) : knit 1, double decrease (knit method), knit to the end (3 stitches)

Ridge 23 (Dark) : double decrease (purl method) (1 stitch)


Square 2

Using Dark, cast on 24 stitches then pick up one stitch from the end of each ridge of Square 1 (47 stitches in total)

Work as for Square 1.


Square 3

Using Dark, pick up one stitch from the end of each ridge of Square 1, cast on 24 stitches (47 stitches in total)

Work as for Square 1.


Square 4

Using Dark, pick up one stitch from the end of each ridge of Square 2, one from the corner, and one from the end of each ridge of Square 3 (47 stitches in total).

Work as for Square 1.


The square is shown with a garter stitch border all round.




The first row of every ridge is knit.

The following instructions only tell you what to do on the second (wrong side) row of the ridge.

Mitred squares cannot be charted in the same way as other designs because you do not knit normal straight rows.

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Each ridge has a double decrease at the centre. You may want to experiment with various decreases to find which you like best.


My preferred method is:



If you are familiar with any method of temporary cast on, you might want to use it whenever you are not picking up from existing stitches. Where the instructions say cast on you can use a temporary cast on and remove it later.